Tag: 3d

Wacom users’s guide

Here are my adventures in using my wacom.

Questions:

  1. The wacom eraser doesn’t work under gimp.

Answers

  1. It might be counter intuitive, but gimp actually knows which side of the pen you are using. So when you switch to the erase, select the eraser tool.  If you flip back to the pen side, it will draw, and next time it will know when you switch to the eraser to switch to the eraser.

Google Sketchup – The Quick Reference

If you install this plugin you can export the faces of a sketcup model into a vector drawing (SVG). The website is here. Shortcuts:

  • k = xray
  • space = select
  • s = scale
  • p = pull/extrude

Component:  easily selectible, only do this when you have it completely built Websites Availble for more information:

Extensions:

Printable:  Select, right click, and pick entity info.  if you don’t see under volume, then it is not a manifold model and should be printable. Component:  when you change one, it will change all copies of it unless you said make unique How to cut up a model for printing multiple times:

  • make model into a component
  • Create a box line all the way around the component model this will let you draw on the component but not modify the component
  • Create a mid point bounding box, then a box to cut the model in the center
  • intersect with selection, explode the component, the do views to only grab the sections of the model you want to capture
  • From there copy/paste away into the sections, fix them so they will print individually, then print

Things to research:

  • how to create a negative for an object (put a screw into a piece, and have it create the hole for the screw)

3d Patent and Copyright Research

http://yro.slashdot.org/story/13/02/20/0317250/the-patents-that-threaten-3-d-printing (outlines several still-active patents)

http://www.publicknowledge.org/it-will-be-awesome-if-they-dont-screw-it-up (long)

http://www.publicknowledge.org/Copyright-3DPrinting (even longer, but worth reading about patents vs copyrights)

Let the 3d printing patent wars begin!

http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/11/21/1333233/form1-3d-printer-and-kickstarter-get-sued-for-patent-infringment

http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/10/12/1424250/drm-could-come-to-3d-printers

Extruding issues – filament stripping

I recently started to have issue with the extruder stripping the filament instead of pushing it through the hot end. At first I thought it might be the hobbed bolt I got from Ultimachine a year ago. I swapped it out with my hyena from arcol. After about a day, the problem was back. Which pointed to the hotend itself instead of the hobbed bolt. Not something I wanted to hear, as that is MUCH more expensive to fix. As luck would have it I finally got my Arcol V4 in, and decided to give it a test drive in the old system.  It was compatible with the Mendel Prusa v2 with no modifications.  It appeared to extruder well, but since my bed isn’t level now the print had some minor issues/imperfections in it. I was printing with PLA, which is giving me problem, and it didn’t want to stick to itself. I will check the temp with my infrared thermometer tonight to make sure the thermistor table is accurate. I read 93k ohms across the thermistor before I wired it up, and my other was at 100k.  After a brief discussion with Laszlo Krekacs (creator of the arcol), I started using open “7” in the marlin firmware for the thermistor.  It seems to be reflecting more accurately the true temp of the arcol now.

Spool hanger

imagePosted 12/03/2012:
I finally got tired of having to manually spool filiment off the spool that was on the ground, and then have to “untangle” it after every print.  So.. design these brackets to hold a wooden dowel rod.

 

Posted 12/4/2012:
After letting it run overnight unattended, I have concluded it doesn’t take much tension at all to make the extruder start to dig into the filiment and stop extruding.  I didn’t waste much plastic, as the print stopped around the 4-5 layer of two prusa feet.  But to wake up to unfinished feet was disappointing.

Ripping 3d Models

There are a few ways to do this.

NifSkope (link) targetted mainly to cryengine based games

3D Ripper DX – http://www.deep-shadows.com/hax/3DRipperDX.htm
This program works with Direct X 8 and works extremely well with Emulators like Dolphin which is a emulator for Wii and Gamecube games. There are also Emulators for the first XBOX which this program also works with as long as you have Direct X 8 you can use this program it will not work with newer versions of Direct X.

3D VIA Printscreen – http://www.3dvia.com/products/3dvia-printscreen/
This program works the same way as 3D Ripper DX except for that it does’nt matter what version of Direct X you use. I am still learning with this program so I will teach here as I learn myself.

A Video On How To Rip Models –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL2eejJoWI8